There were often variations used on block planes and other tools. Some of the photos are pretty poor. X Trademark Block Plane Variation. Y Trademark Block Plane Variation. Y Trademark Canadian Variation. AA Trademark Canadian Variation. I have small Stanley SH no. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Twitter account.
The next obvious feature was to add a screw to adjust it Type Frog now have a slot at the bottom for the central rib.
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Notice also the size difference between the Brass depth adjuster. Start at Type 9. This is one place were we have to deviate slightly from the Type study since ,. No 5, 6, 7 and 8 being longer have their Nos cast at the heel instead. Nonetheless, Bailey did not appear on their castings before Type 9. Two patents Nos appears on the casting, right behind the frog and the rear tote and there is no screw to adjust the frog from the rear.
The front knob is of the low type. It is also about that time that the brass nuts holding the knob and tote start to change from a cylindrical form to one with a waist on them. That was to minimize the nut sticking into the wood. The one on the left shows the slim waist while the other still has the cylindrical form. You sometimes run into both types on a plane. A general description of stuff to look for when examining a bench plane is listed under the 3 smoother. This stuff is applicable to all Stanley bench planes of the basic Bailey design as well as those that incorporate the Bailey patents such as the Bed Rocks , and comes from my observances of thousands of these planes.
All dimensions that follow each number indicate the length of the sole, the width of the cutter, and the weight of the tool.
“How Many Patent Dates do you see behind the handplane frog?”
There were some subtle differences in the dimensions, but only those that are significant are mentioned where appropriate. So, if you have a plane that's one-half inch shorter or longer than what's mentioned here, don't go thinking that you have some ultra-rare version of the tool. You don't except in the case of the 2. If the plane is inches shorter than what's listed here, you have one that's suffered an amputation along the way. One other thing - you'll note that I sometimes refer to the cutter as the iron and vice versa. I've always used the term 'iron' to represent the chunk of metal you sharpen to make the plane a plane.
Stanley, in their reams of propaganda, referred to it as a 'cutter'. I'll occasionally slip into the Stanley mantra, and use their lingo, even when I know better that it's properly called an 'iron'. This is the first plane of the Bailey series, which Stanley made into the world's standard plane configuration after they bought the patent rights to the design from Leonard Bailey, who was making the planes in relative obscurity in Boston, Massachusetts during the 's.
Bailey had experimented with several designs, but finally settled upon a style that is still being manufactured, with minor modification, today. This plane was designed to smooth small areas and was found practical by many since it can be used with one hand, much like a block plane is. It never has a number cast on it, nor was it ever provided a lateral adjustment lever.
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The plane always has a solid brass nut for the iron's depth adjustment; i. They are cute little planes that look sorta neat on a mantle, or on top of your TV, which is probably a better place for them than in your shop due to their value. Every serious collector of old tools wants one of these little monkeys, which makes the cost of owning one rather steep. This plane never was corrugated see 2C 's listing below.
Do not ever buy one that is. The Ohio Tool Company did make a corrugated version of this plane, but they ain't Stanley, which is the company of concern here. The plane has been reproduced and can fool the novice very easily. The quickest way to tell if it is a fake is by examining the threaded rod on which the depth adjustment nut the brass knob traverses.
An original has its rod perfectly parallel to the sole of the plane, whereas the reproduction has its tilted upward toward the tote. The irons of some reproductions have the logo stamped on both sides, but this can't be relied upon as a foolproof identification of the plane's originality since there are a lot of unused legitimate 1 irons out there and it's very easy to switch the reproduction iron with an original one.
The castings of the reproductions are coarser than on the originals, but unless you've seen an original, you really don't have any idea what the correct texture is. A modern manufacturer makes a very nice copy of the plane, but it could never fool anyone as being original since his is made of the usual bronze alloy and the knob and tote are not rosewood.
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These planes are generally in very good, or better, condition since they were used very little. There are far too many of them out there to be considered salesman's samples or novelties as some people believe them to be. As proof that they were used, they do suffer damage, primarily about their mouth.
The thinness, and consequent fragility, of the bottom casting makes this damage the most commonly found on these planes. A cracked tote is another fairly common flaw found on these planes. There are guys making reproduction totes for these and other planes. Be careful when you buy! Another form of damage I've noticed on them is one I can never understand how it ever happened in the first place. The screws used to secure the frog to the bottom casting actually poke through the sole!
The cause of this is because the washers were not used along with the screws, which means that the sole had to be drilled in order for the screws to seat. This damage is very easy to recognize - flip the plane over and look for two screws staring back at you. You'll cringe in horror the first time you ever see it. The screws used to secure the frog to the base have round heads, and not flat ones the earliest larger bench planes had round heads, but later were changed to flat ones.
Also, the frog, and its mating to the bottom, only underwent one redesign during its production, which is far less than the redesigns the larger bench planes had done to them. The earliest models have an I-shaped, or H-shaped depending upon how it's viewed receiving area for the frog.
Subsequent models have the broad and flat receiving area. Strangely, more than a few of these planes are missing their knobs. Maybe it's because junior stole them to play marbles, or something like that. The knobs of the 98 and 99 are a close match and a source for replacements.
Another plane to smooth small areas. A smooth plane, according to some Stanley propaganda " is used for finishing or smoothing off flat surfaces. Where uneven spots are of slight area, its short length will permit it to locate these irregularities, leaving the work with a smooth surface when finished. While the 2 is certainly scarce when compared to the larger bench planes , proving that its use was rather limited, it nevertheless is a useful tool for when one is faced with some isolated stubborn grain or smoothing smaller pieces of work.
Its small size permits it to work smaller areas more effectively than the larger and more common 4. It's very difficult to close your hand around the tote on this one, unless you have small hands.
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Be very careful that the lever cap is proper for this plane - it's very easy to grind a 3 lever cap narrower to fit this plane. Look at the sides of the lever cap, when it's clamped in place - a ground 3 lever cap will have its sides projecting well above the highest point on each of the bottom casting's arched sides. Give the machining along the edges of the lever cap a close inspection to verify that it's a proper 2 lever cap.
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A common area of damage on the 2 's is at the very rear of the sole, or heel of the plane, where the threaded rod used to secure the tote to the bottom casting is received by a raised boss in the bottom casting.